Men’s Waistcoats: A Starter Guide for Beginners

In a rush to inform men about the basics of suits, socks and neckties, I seem to have rather neglected the subject of waistcoats on Guy Style Guide. But that’s now all in the past, because today I’m going to tackle this most magnificent garment.

A versatile piece of timeless sophistication, the waistcoat can look great in both formal and casual situations. Yet, it’s all too easy to get it so horribly wrong and end up looking like a real dog’s dinner.

So let’s take a quick look at the basic rules for getting your waistcoat looking smart this season.

1. It’s all about the fit.

I know I tend to harp on about the fit time-after-time, but when it comes to the waistcoat your vital statistics are everything. Remember, you want your waistcoat to skim your silhouette just as your sweaters do.

Make sure you have plenty of room around the armholes; not only will it allow for a greater freedom of movement, it’ll prevent your shirts from riding up when you raise your arms skyward.

2. Simple styles work every time.

Don’t indulge your passion for gingham straight out of the gate. Instead, invest in a neutral tone to match every piece in your wardrobe. Black, light grey and navy all work wonderfully, but my personal recommendation would be mid-depth charcoal for a first time waistcoat.

If you want to go pattern crazy or inject a little bit of colour to your overall look, I’d save it for your shirt. This way you don’t have to buy a new waistcoat every time you want ‘something a little different’.

3. Avoid billowing and puffiness.

Unless you’re working your way to a fancy dress party as a pirate or matador, you should ensure you’re not wearing a shirt that’s too big for your frame; the fabric will balloon up, especially around the shoulders and neckline, if you do.

My advice would be to restrict yourself exclusively to slim or tailored fitting clothes under your waistcoat. This will ensure a better fit all around and negate the bunching effect.

4. Grab a seasonal material.

The great thing about waistcoats is they can be worn at any time of the year. For summer fun, grab yourself light cotton and linen. During the winter months, try something more substantial like tweed or wool.

5. Say ‘No’ to novelties.

I hate novelty clothing at the best of times, but with the waistcoat, nothing says tacky quite like a giant national flag plastered all over your back and sides. Please, for the love of everything, don’t indulge crazy novelty designs. Ever.

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